Ureparapara: Hidden Paradise, Warm Welcomes, and a 70kg Fishing Triumph
Our final stop before clearing out! Ureparapara is the third-largest island in the Banks group of northern Vanuatu. This 8-kilometre-wide island boasts a 5-kilometre-wide ancient volcanic cone, breached by the sea on its eastern coast. It’s a natural harbour with a jaw-dropping entrance that makes you feel like you’re sailing straight into a tropical postcard.
Not many visitors make it here, especially sailors, as most clear out further south in Santo and must bypass the northern islands. Once cleared out, you can’t stop anywhere in the country again. Heading back against the trade winds is a bit of a mission, so Ureparapara remains a well-kept secret. For that reason, visitors are as welcome as a cool breeze on a sweltering day. In fact, the whole village has a special call to announce the arrival of a yacht – a warm greeting you won’t find in many places. With no phone coverage, the locals rely on yachties with Starlink to stay in touch with family scattered across the country.
On the way to Ureparapara, Mark decided to dust off the fishing rod. We’d had some early wins when arriving in Vanuatu with a Skipjack Tuna and a Mahi Mahi, so hopes were high. And lo and behold, Mark hooked a monster – a Yellowfin Tuna! What followed was an hour-long battle of man versus fish. Mark was sweating buckets, so I jumped in to help, but just briefly. Every metre of progress was undone as the tuna took off again like it had places to be.
The rod wasn’t up to the job – max load: 60kg. The tuna? A casual 70kg. Naturally, it was slowly giving in. Drama ensued by the owner. It turns out the issue wasn’t the load, just an errant screw that popped off and into the sea. A quick call to the New Zealand manufacturer later, our credit card swiped, and the part was sorted. Meanwhile, Mark soldiered on, earning every bit of that fish. When we finally hauled it aboard, the crew’s excitement was… well, non-existent. Before we could snap a victory photo, they were already butchering it.
Eventually, Mark got his photo with the headless tuna, proud as Oskar! Half of the fish was filleted for us, and the rest went to a hospital on an island we were passing at the time. That day, we feasted on fresh sashimi and continued enjoying tuna for days. As someone who’s sworn off commercial fish and meat, I was thrilled to tuck into something sustainable and delicious again.
When we arrived at Ureparapara, I wasn’t at my best – a bladder infection from our Millennium Cave trip kept me mostly onboard. Mark, however, hiked up a mountain for incredible views… but forgot his phone on the boat. The skipper introduced us to a local family, and we received the warmest welcome, complete with flower garlands. Jenny and her daughter, Lolita, visited us on the boat a few times, and my colouring book and sunglasses were a massive hit.
We arrived just before Independence Day celebrations. While the village prepared, we took short walks to the local school and around the area. It was stunning, though we couldn’t help but cringe at a hideous European-style toilet block plonked in the middle of the traditional village. A cruise liner that stops by twice a year built it – talk about an eyesore in paradise.
Independence Day itself was laid-back and charming. We missed the morning service but had a blast watching the afternoon games. Before we knew it, it was time to say goodbye. With limited onshore time and a lack of phones in hand, our pictures are sparse – but the memories are rich.
Next, we sailed back to Santo to officially clear out, ready for a seven-day crossing to the Solomon Islands. After spending two months in Vanuatu, this country has firmly claimed a soft spot in our hearts. It’s a breathtaking place, brimming with warmth and kindness – a little slice of heaven on Earth.
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