Lost at Maewo Island

Maewo Island: Neat Villages, Baby Sharks, and Island-Time Shenanigans

One of our short stops, just one night on this beautiful little island, but definitely one to remember. We fell in love the moment we anchored because, for the first time, we could literally look down and see the anchor—yes, that’s how crystal clear the water was! From the boat, we could also spot a gorgeous waterfall only a few metres away, running into the sea. Talk about a prime location.

We decided to go snorkelling in the afternoon but first had to head ashore to ask for permission. In Vanuatu, every piece of land or reef belongs to someone, so it’s always polite to check if you’re allowed to snorkel in what is essentially their underwater garden. As soon as we stepped foot on land, the locals were there to greet us with huge smiles, clearly excited to show us around. They led us to the reef’s owner and hinted that there might be a small fee if we wanted to snorkel.

The village itself was a dream—well-kept, with colourful houses surrounded by lush greenery, and a huge banyan tree in the middle, like the village’s crown jewel. We found the reef’s owner, who generously gave us permission to snorkel without charging a fee. He also had the cutest little dog, who seemed utterly fascinated by my camera. I jokingly asked if I could take him, and to my surprise, the owner didn’t mind! Sadly, the skipper wasn’t as enthusiastic about having a furry stowaway, so the pup stayed behind.

Leanne, the first local to greet us, continued showing us around. She even offered to cook us a traditional dinner that evening. I was thrilled—there’s nothing better than trying authentic local food—but, true to form, the skipper wanted dinner onboard. Of course. So far, the only time we’ve eaten off the boat was when Mark and I abandoned ship for a week. It’s frustrating because I genuinely believe trying the local cuisine is half the experience of getting to know a culture. Exploring other countries, cultures, and meeting people is my ultimate travel passion—but so is food!

We wandered around the village some more, eventually stumbling across a school. As always, we ended up crashing classes—though “crashing” isn’t quite right since the kids and teachers practically begged us to come in. The children were buzzing with excitement, and even the teachers seemed happy for the distraction. After soaking up all the curious looks and giggles, we made our way back to the boat to grab our snorkelling gear.

The snorkelling was nothing short of spectacular—easily one of the best spots we’ve visited in Vanuatu. It was like a diver’s playground, with turtles, schools of fish, and an incredible crack in the coral wall just begging to be explored. That’s where we found a turtle casually chilling before we accidentally scared it off. Sorry, dude.

Mark and I were having a blast with the GoPro, taking ridiculous underwater shots, until we noticed everyone else was already back on the dinghy, waiting for us. Oops. Later, when we were reviewing the footage, Mark suddenly pointed out, “Babe, I think there are some massive sharks behind me.” I laughed and replied, “Sure, babe,” assuming he was joking. But nope—there they were, clear as day, lurking in the background. To be fair, they weren’t massive—more like baby sharks (cue the earworm)—but the fact that I hadn’t noticed them while cheerfully filming Mark was absolutely hilarious.

The next morning, we had planned to hike up the waterfall track with a guide named Carl, whom we’d met the day before. We waited… and waited… and waited. But no Carl. Eventually, another man strolled by, and when we asked if he knew Carl, he said, “Oh yes, he’s my friend. I’ll go get him.” He returned shortly after to inform us that Carl was still asleep. Island life at its finest!

Not wanting to waste the day, we asked this new friend, Thomas, if he would guide us instead. He was heading to his garden up the hill and was thrilled to bring us along for what he promised would be a quick 30-minute walk. The view from the top was breathtaking—a panorama of the island’s lush greenery and the endless blue of the ocean. Honestly, with the sweltering heat, 30 minutes felt more than enough for a hike that day. We enjoyed a light lunch at the summit before slipping and sliding our way back down the hill to the coast.

Back in the village, we stopped to chat with some locals who were busy building a new brick house. The kids were absolutely covered in concrete dust, which their mum clearly found amusing. Laughing, she told them to go wash off. She stripped them down and sent them running into the sea for a “shower.” I found this hilarious because we shower after we’ve been in the sea. But honestly, it worked a treat for them. Their thick afros stayed completely dry—water just beaded off like magic. Meanwhile, if I’d tried that, I’d have emerged looking like a bedraggled sea monster with instant dreadlocks. Evolution, eh?

Before we’d even had time to digest all these incredible experiences, it was time to leave. Maewo Island may only be 6km wide and 47km long, but it packs a punch. Known as the “Waterfall Island,” it boasts the most rainfall in Vanuatu and is home to countless cascades waiting to be explored. With fewer than 100 tourists visiting each year, it’s gloriously off the beaten track. One day, we’ll definitely be back to dive deeper into this little gem—on proper “island time.”